Today marks the 58th anniversary of the Last Steam Train on British Rail, known widely as the Fifteen Guinea Special.  While the cost then was regarded as extortionate, 15 guineas is between £300 and £355 in today’s money, roughly the price of travelling on a private steam or modern traction railtour, including dining, over National Rail metals.  This does not include luxury tourist trains such as the Royal Scotsman.

I was awakened at around 07.30hrs by the announcement that we were at anchor and given details of going ashore.

While rather cool this morning, 37°F with a southeasterly breeze of 10 knots, things will change later with winds from the northwest at 15 knots.  A bright day is envisaged, with some later cloud cover.  The question is, what will the weather be like at Reykjavik at 17.47 hrs tomorrow?  

(09.48 hrs.)

What a surprise…it is extremely pleasant outside.  Last night during my truncated dinner, looking through the opposite restaurant windows, I wished that I had forgone dinner altogether and enjoyed the now close-up dramatic Islandic coastline. I should be able to make up for it tonight when we set sail for Reykjavik. It doesn’t become dark until almost midnight.  It’s very unlikely that I shall be coming this way again, and want to make the most of this rare travel opportunity.

Isafjordur for QM2 is a tender-port, being anchored around 15 minutes from the mainland. I have not booked a “shore experience”, but will see what is available.  We were dropped off quite with a long walk to the town.  Isafjordur is light, airy and on a sunny day like now, bright.  With four cruise ships here, 7,000 tourists have invaded, hopefully contributing to the local economy.  Tomorrow’s eclipse will be spectacular from here. 

I tried to do as in the Caribbean when at or near the quayside, there’s no end of tour offers being thrust in your face (which actually, I don’t mind).  Not so here!  The numerous tour outlets declared all their tours sold out.  The only option was to walk around the town and maybe get a coffee.  The weather was uncharacteristically clear with hardly a cloud in the pale blue skies.  A soft breeze reminded me of my proximity to the Arctic Circle.  Patches of snow on the hills is a sign of how far north we are.  Snow in August – not even in Buxton does that occur! 

I walked towards the town in search of refreshment – I really fancied a coffee. However, I took a wrong road, and ended up heading towards a steep high hill and eventually going partway up.  On the way, I could see our ship between houses on a level road I decided to explore.  Their gardens afforded clear views of any shipping.  A little trespass was in order, not realising that further along, I could access perfect uninterrupted views of QM2 at the lower level of the steep hill overlooking the town, along which ran a path reminiscent of a former railway which runs along. 

I was not the only cruise passenger up there. Roger and Ruth on their first cruise were among a small number exploring that part of Isafjordur.  They recommended a pleasant coffee shop which I located on my way back to the tender port.  The freshly made ham and cheese baguette, a kind of croissant and real coffee made for a special treat.  The café was not inundated with cruise guests, but plenty of who appeared to be locals. 

Now that the sun had moved sufficiently, I tried to find a location to photograph QM2 with the sun reflecting off the superstructure.  There was no vantage point close enough.  I boarded the next tender with about forty minutes to spare. 

Once back on board QM2, I had further refreshment in the Kings Court Buffet.  Then there was a cacophony of ship’s sirens.  AIDAluna was passing QM2 presumably en route for a suitable point to witness the eclipse.

The “Oceanana Mariner” was not far behind.  It did pass us, with another “battle of the sirens“

I think that we left Azamara Journey behind.  Soon, we were on our way to Reykjavik where we shall arrive at 07.00hrs, when the QM2 “bing-bong” will wake me up.  Again, I have nothing booked.

Eventually, I joined Janet & Co. for dinner in the Britannia Restaurant.  I adjourned to the Royal Court Theatre to see the virtuoso pianist Tim Abel. What can I say?  He was brilliant!

It wasn’t completely dark at around 23.50 hrs tonight.

Many thanks for reading, David,  in his stateroom 00.37 hrs.